May 20, 2014

Is it ok to use cosmetics after the expiry date?

Cosmetics, especially AHA or BHA peels is not something I would take a chance on. Actives such as Vitamin A ( retinol) and Vitamin C are also highly unstable and should be used as soon as possible. 

Remember, strength and efficacy of peels and cosmetic formulations is not only determined by the type of ingredients you use, the percentage of actives, but also the activity or pH. 

pH is especially difficult to stabilize and normalize in a cosmetic formulation. If it's old, or worse, has been exposed to too Hight heat or extreme cold temperatures, humidity, change of pressure, or the product is exposed to air, the formula will de-stabilize a lot quicker. 

At the very least it is no longer efficacious beyond the expiry date, has gone rancid, or at the worst, the chemical compounds have changed and could cause adverse reactions.

 I have worked in the pharmaceutical industry for 7 years, and have had experience with manufacturing of cosmetics, drugs, medicines and nutritional supplements. 

Expiry dates should NEVER, ever, be taken lightly. 



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May 11, 2014

FILAMENTS AND MICRO COMEDOS




People with oily skin types are prone to clogging of the pores. This photo shows the first stage of clogging, where the pore is filled with an accumulation of dead skin cells and oil, causing a tiny plug to form on the surface. As the skin is stretched, part of the clogging is pushed out and can be seen and felt as tiny spiky plugs. 

These are relatively easy to treat, but if left untreated can continue to build up and eventually turn to blackheads or pustules (pimples). 

To remove the filaments, use a professional strength exfoliant adapted to your skin type. Look for products that contain either enzymes or salicylic acid as an active ingredient. Both are very efficient at dissolving the plug and removing the clogging. 

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Some professional skin care companies offer specialised exfoliants and deep cleansers that target clogging. Talk to your beauty therapist for best product recommendations. 

In-salon treatments will help to clear the problem quickly, but should only be done once your skin has been prepared with good home care products and your skin is in good condition. You will get much better results from professional treatment if your skin is well hydrated and healthy. 

Some professional treatments to look out for are:
1. Desincrustation with a galvanic machine - where a specially formulated serum is applied to the skin and infused deep in the pore with the galvanic machine. The serum dissolves the clogging, allowing it to flow freely to the surface. This also works very well on blackheads and congestion.

2. Some professional strength products do not need to be infused with galvanic, and only require steam. These products contain similar ingredient to the serum above, but are in a formula that easily penetrates  into the pores. Ask you therapist to use a desincrustation product on your skin during a deep cleanse facial. (note, fillaments are not ripe for extractions so please avoid)
3. A gentle, diamond microdermabrasion treatment. I found diamond better for giving the skin a very smooth, silky finish without any trauma. 

4. A professional enzyme peel will be a little stronger than what you can use at home, and can deliver excellent results. Many enzyme peels are made from natural ingredients such as papaya, pumpkin or pineapple. 

Prevention is better than cure so make sure you cleanse your skin twice a day with a cleanser prescribed to your skin type and exfoliate 2-3 times a week to keep the follicles free of clogging. 


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Jana x

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